PART.01

 走近白裤瑶服饰

瑶族支系众多，各支系服饰也不尽相同。所以，过去瑶族曾因服饰的颜色、裤子的式样、头饰的装扮不同而得各种族称。广西南丹瑶族男子穿交领上衣，下着白色大裆紧腿齐膝短裤，因而得“白裤瑶”之称。

There are many branches of the Yao ethnic group, and the clothing of each branch is also different. So, in the past, the Yao ethnic group was referred to by various ethnic names due to differences in clothing colours, pants styles, and headgear. Men of the Yao ethnic group in Nandan, Guangxi, wear cross-collared tops and white crotch tight leg length shorts, earning them the nickname "White Pants Yao".

由于历史、环境等原因， 白裤瑶族的服饰艺术保持着珍贵的原始性、生动的历史性和丰富多彩、完整的艺术性。白裤瑶被联合国教科文组织认定为民族文化保留最完整的一个民族，被称为“人类文明的活化石”。

Due to historical and environmental reasons, the clothing art of the Bai Ku Yao ethnic group maintains its precious originality, vivid historical significance, and rich, colourful, and complete artistic quality. The Bai Ku Yao people have been recognised by UNESCO as the most well-preserved ethnic group in terms of cultural heritage. They are known as the "living fossils of human civilisation".

白裤瑶因男子都穿着及膝的白裤而得名。白裤瑶男装上身为蓝黑色立领对襟衣，胸前两侧各绣一个鸡仔花图案。白裤瑶男子的裤子用白布做成，裤脚用黑布镶边。盛装的上衣外沿都用蓝布镶边，腰部两边和背部下沿绣有鸡仔花和米字纹图案。白裤的膝部刺绣有五条红色的花纹。相传这是瑶王与外族战争时留下的血手印。

Bai Ku Yao is named after men who wear knee-length white pants. The upper body of the white pants Yao men's clothing is a blue and black standing collar shirt, with a chicken flower pattern embroidered on each side of the chest. The pants of the Yao men in white pants are made of white cloth, and the hems are trimmed with black cloth. The outer edge of the dressed top is bordered with blue cloth, and the sides of the waist and the lower edge of the back are embroidered with chicken flower and rice grain patterns. The knee of the white pants is embroidered with five red patterns. It is said that this is the blood handprint left by the Yao King during the war with foreign tribes.

白裤瑶衣服图案里，鸡仔花是主要纹饰，男女的服装上都有，体现出对鸡的崇敬；白裤瑶女子服饰分为夏冬两种。夏装的上衣称为“褂衣”，为前后两块方布缝合而成。前面的布幅是一块纯色的黑布，后面的布幅用染、绣的手法做成各种图案。图案相传是瑶王留下的印章。

In the patterns of white pants Yao clothing, the chicken flower is the main decoration, which is present on both men's and women's clothing, reflecting reverence for the chicken; White pants Yao women's clothing is divided into two types: summer and winter. The top of summer clothing is called a "coat", which is made by sewing two pieces of square cloth at the front and back. The front fabric is a solid black cloth, while the back fabric is made into various patterns using dyeing and embroidery techniques. The pattern is said to be a seal left by King Yao.

白裤瑶服饰

人类文明活化石

PART.02

  白裤瑶制作过程

白裤瑶是一种男耕女织的自给自足经济，衣服都是自制。每年四月约在谷雨时种棉花，八、九月收获，每家每年都种一亩左右，产25斤棉。收获的棉花经轧面后纺纱。布为自织，几乎每户都有织布机，25斤棉花纺的纱一个月织成一匹布，布幅宽约一尺五，可做女装五套，男装五套共十套。

Bai Ku Yao is a self-sufficient economy where men farm and women weave their clothes. Cotton is planted around April during the Grain Rain season, and harvested in August and September. Each household plants about one acre per year, producing 25 pounds of cotton. The harvested cotton is rolled and spun. The fabric is self-woven, and almost every household has a loom. 25 pounds of cotton yarn is woven into one piece of fabric per month, with a width of about 1.5 feet. It can be used for five sets of women's clothing and ten sets of men's clothing.

白裤瑶妇女服饰的上衣和裙子都采用独特的树汁染或树浆染技术。树汁染的原料主要是当地特有的粘膏树汁。每年四月开始砍树坑采树汁。砍好树坑后，一般20天到一个月就可以收获了。采来的树汁用小盐罐装好，罐里须加一些水。用时放在锅里，下面用玉米杆燃烧加热，加入适量的牛油，煮到液体整个滚开又没有气泡就可以使用了。

The tops and skirts of Bai Ku Yao women's clothing are dyed with unique tree sap or sap dyeing techniques. The main raw material for dyeing tree sap is the locally unique sticky paste tree sap. Starting from April every year, the tree pit is cut down to collect tree sap. After cutting down the tree pit, it usually takes 20 days to a month to harvest. The tree sap collected should be canned with small salt, and some water should be added to the jar. When using, place it in a pot and heat it with a corn cob. Add an appropriate amount of butter and cook until the liquid is completely rolled away without any bubbles before use.

白裤瑶制作服饰用的白布在绘图前要经过压光处理，即将白布放在垫板上用木棒或鹅卵石磨光滑，以方便作画。白布经过处理后，即可用画铲蘸煮开的粘膏汁在上面作画。画铲有大画铲和小画铲之分，大画铲主要画一些大直线和曲线，小画铲主要画一些小的图案。白裤瑶妇女的裙子有三组图案，一组为菱形连续组合，一组为连续的人形图案，一组为纯色。

The white cloth used by Bai Ku Yao to make clothing needs to undergo calendering treatment before drawing. That is, the white cloth is placed on a cushion and polished smooth with a wooden stick or pebble to facilitate painting. After processing the white cloth, you can use a spatula dipped in the boiled sticky paste to paint on it. There are two types of drawing shovels: large drawing shovels and small drawing shovels. The large drawing shovel mainly draws large straight lines and curves, while the small drawing shovel mainly draws small patterns. The dress of Bai Ku Yao women has three sets of patterns, one set is a continuous diamond combination, one set is a continuous humanoid pattern, and one set is a solid colour.

秋收过后是白裤瑶染布的季节。染布时，要往染缸里加一碗蓝靛、一碗酒，制成染料。将画布放入染缸内两个小时后取出，放在木板上晾至半干，再放入缸内染。一天如此三次，再拿去洗，晾干后继续染，照前面的步骤3-5次，整个过程需要半个月。之后用稻草烧成灰，过滤出碱水，把染好的画布放入碱水中在锅内煮，除去粘膏。接着将脱了粘膏汁的布放入蓝靛染缸内再染一遍，使原来画有粘膏的部分染上蓝色。取出晾干，用蕨根水浸泡固色，采野淮山洗净去皮，捣成浆，滤得汁水，浸泡画布使之硬挺，即可刺绣花纹，最后缝成衣服。

After the autumn harvest, it is the season for white pants and Yao dyeing fabrics. When dyeing cloth, you need to add a bowl of indigo and a bowl of wine to the dyeing vat to make dye. After placing the canvas in the dyeing vat for two hours, take it out and hang it on a wooden board until it is half dry, then put it in the vat for dyeing. Repeat this process three times a day, then take it to wash, air dry it and continue dyeing. Follow the previous steps 3-5 times, and the entire process will take half a month. Afterwards, burn the straw into ash, filter out the alkaline water, put the dyed canvas into the alkaline water and boil it in a pot to remove the sticky paste. Then put the cloth without the adhesive paste into the indigo dyeing vat and dye it again, so that the part originally painted with adhesive paste is dyed blue. Take it out and dry it, soak it in fern root water to fix the colour, wash and peel wild Huaishan, mash it into a paste, filter the juice, soak the canvas to make it stiff, embroider the pattern, and finally sew it into clothes.

PART.03

  走进白裤瑶服饰

白裤瑶服饰历史悠久，制作精美，织染绣的传统技术高超多样，花色图案丰富多彩，蕴涵的文化古朴神秘，构成了少数民族民族独特的审美意识，体现了少数民族的聪明才智。

The Bai Ku Yao clothing has a long history and exquisite production. The traditional techniques of weaving, dyeing, and embroidery are highly diverse, and the colours and patterns are rich and colourful. The culture it contains is ancient and mysterious, which constitutes the unique aesthetic consciousness of ethnic minorities and reflects their intelligence and wisdom.

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