南京云锦全称“南京云锦木机妆花手工织造技艺”其工序繁杂，经过“装造掏范、障口、掏边、找断头、接头、拽花、摇纬、练梭、抛梭、挖花过管、妆花配色、织造打纬”等十多个步骤，超过百道工序。2006 年5月20日，南京云锦织造技艺经国务院批准列入第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录，编号：VIII-13。

云锦，始于元朝，盛于明清，至今已有七百多年的历史，以其繁复精密、色彩绚烂、纹样庄严而闻名于世。云锦集合了历代各地织锦优点，被人们誉为“锦中之冠”，代表了中国丝织工艺的最高成就。它的命名既和技艺源头无关，也跟生产属地无关，因其花纹色泽绚丽多彩，如云彩般美丽，得此雅名。

Yunjin, which originated during the Yuan Dynasty, flourished during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and has a history spanning over 700 years. It is renowned for its intricate and precise design, vibrant colors, and majestic patterns. Yunjin combines the strengths of various regional weaving techniques from different dynasties, earning it the title of "the crown among brocades." It represents the pinnacle achievement of China's silk weaving techniques. The name Yunjin is unrelated to the origin of the technique or the place where it was developed. Instead, it is due to the stunning and colourful patterns that resemble clouds, hence the elegant name.

南京云锦的产生和发展与南京这座城市密切相关。南京的丝织业最早可追溯到南朝。东晋在建康（今南京）设立了专门掌管织锦“锦署”。这一专司织锦的皇家官署，不仅开启了南京官营织造的历史先河，更被后世的人们认为是南京云锦正式诞生的标志。

The emergence and development of Nanjing Cloud Brocade are closely linked to the city of Nanjing. The silk weaving industry in Nanjing can be traced back to the Southern Dynasties. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, a special office called the "Jin Office" was established in Jiankang (present-day Nanjing) to oversee the production of brocade. This royal office dedicated solely to brocade production not only marked the beginning of the history of state-run weaving in Nanjing but is also regarded by later generations as the official birthplace of Nanjing Cloud Brocade.

自元代起，云锦一直都是皇家服饰的专用品。明朝时，织锦技艺日益成熟，形成了南京丝织提花锦缎的地方特色。清朝时期制造的云锦，品种繁多、用料考究、织工精细、图案色彩典雅富丽，被视为历史上南京云锦织造工艺的巅峰时期。

Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yun Jin has been exclusively used for royal attire. During the Ming Dynasty, the weaving technique became increasingly refined, giving rise to a local speciality known as Nanjing silk-weaving brocade. The Yun Jin produced during the Qing Dynasty is renowned for its diverse varieties, meticulous selection of materials, intricate weaving, and elegant and splendid patterns and colours. It is regarded as the pinnacle of Nanjing's Yun Jin weaving craftsmanship throughout history.

                       南京云锦

云锦织造

1.纹样设计：云锦纹样多取材自自然景物、吉祥图案乃至戏曲故事，如“龙凤呈祥”“百鸟朝凤”“如意云纹”等。纹样需庄严饱满、构图需严谨。绘制设计好的图案或样式。

1. Design of patterns: The patterns on Yun Jin silk  are often inspired by natural scenery, auspicious motifs, and even stories from operas, such as "The Phoenix and Dragon Presenting Good Fortune," "A Hundred Birds Greeting the Phoenix," and "Ruyi Cloud Pattern." The patterns should be solemn and full, and the composition should be meticulous. Designing and drawing the patterns or styles that have been created.

2.填绘：当纹样、组织、规格等设计好之后，就要填绘“意匠图”。意匠纸是特制的，上面有纵横小格，它的纵横小格是代表经纬线，格子的大小比例是代表经纬密度的。

2. Sketching: Once the design for motifs, organisation, and specifications has been finalised, it is time to create a "design sketch." Design sketch paper is specially made and features small grid lines both horizontally and vertically. These grid lines represent the warp and weft threads, and the size and proportion of the grid lines indicate the density of the weave.

3.挑花结本：这是云锦独有的“程序编写”过程。织工采用古老的用绳结做记录的方法，把设计好的花纹、图案、色彩像编写程序代码一样编写储存到丝线上。所谓“花本虽旧，样式常新”，正指这一技艺的灵活与智慧。

3. Pick-and-sew binding: This is a unique "programming" process exclusive to Yun Jin. Weavers use an ancient method of using knots to record information, writing and storing the designed patterns, designs, and colours onto the silk threads like programming code. The saying "even an old pattern book can have fresh designs" aptly describes the flexibility and ingenuity of this craft.

4.准备原料：云锦选用江南地区优质桑蚕丝为经，多以真金、银线、蚕丝线、鸟兽羽毛等织造，使其效果更加华丽、独特、精美绝伦。尤其是“孔雀羽线”，需将孔雀羽毛细捻于丝线上，织入图案中如流光溢彩。大部分御用云锦丝织品上的绿色都是用孔雀羽线织就的。

4. Preparing the raw materials: Yun Jin uses high-quality mulberry silk from the Jiangnan region as the warp. It is often woven with gold, silver threads, silk threads, bird and animal feathers, and other materials to create a more magnificent, unique, and exquisite appearance. In particular, the "Peacock Feather Thread" involves carefully twisting the fine feathers of a peacock onto the silk threads and weaving them into intricate patterns that appear as if they are glowing with vibrant colours. Most of the green colour used in the silk products of the Imperial Collection is achieved through the use of Peacock Feather Thread.

5.织造：设计好的纹样，需要使用构造复杂的大型织机来织造。织机的结构非常复杂，机身高达 4 米，分为上下两层，需要由两个人共同操作，这是最考验耐心与技艺的步骤。

5. Weaving: The designed pattern requires the use of a large and complex weaving machine. The structure of the weaving machine is extremely intricate, with a height of up to 4 meters and divided into two layers. It needs to be operated by two people, making it the most demanding step in terms of patience and skill.

四大品类

1.妆花：云锦中织造工艺最复杂的品种之一，需要采用挖梭技术提花、缂丝“通经断纬”等多种技术，多人配合织造，费工费时。花纹部分采用小梭子进行局部织造施彩，相邻花色可任意切换，一件妆花织物的配色可多达二三十种，且可以处理得繁而不乱，统一和谐，生动优美。

1. Zhuanghua: One of the most complex weaving techniques in cloud brocade. It requires the use of various techniques such as raised shuttle weaving and "broken warp" inked silk weaving. Multiple people are needed to work together to weave this type of fabric, which is time-consuming and labour-intensive. The pattern is created using small shuttles for localised weaving and colouring. Adjacent patterns can be easily switched. The colour scheme of a piece of zhuanghua fabric can range from 20 to 30 colours or more, and it can be arranged in a way that is intricate yet not chaotic, maintaining a sense of unity and harmony, with a lively and beautiful appearance.

2.织金：大量使用金线、银线织出织物全部花纹，光彩夺目，华丽高贵，装饰性强，是云锦中最高级、最具特色的传统品种之一。织金图案往往呈现规整、对称的特点，常见的有各种几何图案.传统吉祥图案等。这些图案通过金银线的勾勒、填充，显得十分庄重、 大气，富有皇家风气。由于金银线本身具有一定的韧性和强度，使得织金云锦的质地相对坚韧，耐用性较好，不易磨损，能够保持长久的光泽和美观。

2. Zhi Jin: This type of fabric features a large amount of gold and silver thread used to create intricate patterns. The result is a dazzling, luxurious, and highly decorative product that is one of the highest-grade and most distinctive traditional varieties of Yun Jin. The patterns of Zhi Jin are typically regular and symmetrical, featuring various geometric designs and traditional auspicious motifs. These patterns, created through the outlining and filling with gold and silver thread, exude a sense of solemnity and grandeur, imbued with a regal atmosphere. Due to the inherent flexibility and strength of the gold and silver thread, Zhi Jin Yun Jin has a relatively sturdy texture and good durability, resisting wear and tear, while maintaining a long-lasting shine and aesthetic appeal.

3.库锻：库缎经、纬紧度较大，成品质地紧密，厚实挺括，缎面平整光滑，不易沾粘灰尘，具有较好的质感，不易变形。库缎纹样以传统团花为主，花型饱满，线条流畅，图案布局严谨对称，给人以端庄、稳重的感觉,花纹常以本色花、地花或妆彩呈现，古朴典雅。色彩相对较为素雅，以单色或双色为主，简洁大方，低调奢华。

3. Ku Dan: The tightness of the warp and weft in Ku Dan makes the finished fabric dense, substantial, and crisp. The surface of the satin is smooth and flat, resistant to dust accumulation. It has a good texture and is less prone to deformation. The patterns in Ku Dan are mainly traditional round flowers, with full-bodied shapes and flowing lines. The arrangement of the motifs is strict and symmetrical, giving a sense of dignity and stability. The patterns often appear in their natural colour, ground colour, or with decorative colours, exuding a sense of simplicity, elegance, and understated luxury. The colour palette is relatively subdued, with single-colour or dual-colour designs that are clean, simple, and understatedly luxurious.

4.库锦：花纹满布，库锦花纹相对简洁，以满布小图案或几何图形为主，视觉上有一种华丽规整.富丽堂皇的感觉。库锦的花纹和色彩很特别，因此具有较强的装饰性，常用于制作一些需要突出装饰效果的物品，如服饰的边缘装饰、荷包、香囊等小件物品，以及室内的装饰品等。

4. Ku Jin: The pattern is densely covered. The Ku Jin pattern is relatively simple, with a focus on densely packed small designs or geometric shapes, giving it a sense of elegance and grandeur. The patterns and colours of Ku Jin are quite distinctive, making it highly decorative. It is often used to create items that require a prominent decorative effect, such as the edges of clothing, purses, fragrance pouches, and other small items, as well as interior decorations.

传承发展

当历史的车轮驶入新时代，云锦正以“通经断纬”的古老智慧，编织传统与现代交融的崭新篇章。近年来，云锦频频跨界，与多个国际知名品牌携手，将东方美学推向更广阔的舞台，不仅为传统工艺注入时代活力，更让世界看见中国非遗的无限可能。

As the wheel of history enters a new era, Yun Jin is weaving a fresh chapter that merges tradition with modernity, using the ancient wisdom of "interweaving the warp and weft." In recent years, Yun Jin has frequently crossed over boundaries and collaborated with several internationally renowned brands, bringing the aesthetic of the East to a broader stage. This not only infuses the traditional craft with contemporary vitality but also allows the world to see the boundless possibilities of China's intangible cultural heritage.

从宫廷御用到生活美学，从手工织造到跨界创新，南京云锦始终在坚守与突破中寻找平衡。这门穿越千年的技艺告诉我们：真正的文化瑰宝，从来都不是凝固的标本，而是像经纬交织的绸缎般，在时代的织机上不断延展，绽放出属于每个时代的独特光彩。

From imperial use in the palace to aesthetic principles in daily life, from hand-woven fabrics to cross-disciplinary innovation, Nanjing Cloud Silk has always sought a balance between adherence to tradition and innovation. This art form that spans thousands of years teaches us that true cultural treasures are not static specimens but rather like the intertwined threads of silk that continue to expand and shine with unique brilliance suited to each era.

不只是非遗，更是一种传承

Not only intangible cultural heritage, but also a form of inheritance.

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